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Thread: 30'-40' faces expected mid week on Oahu

  1. #1

    30'-40' faces expected mid week on Oahu

    Hawaii
    Focused on Oahu
    A very solid new WNW swell (290-310) will build in for the middle part of the week; rapidly picking up over the afternoon on Wednesday and looking largest very early Thursday morning. At this point we're expecting an 18-20' deepwater swell (30-40'+ faces) at the deepwater/big wave breaks of the North Shore, along with some possible/occasional larger sets.

    Fading, but still quite solid, surf will take over on Friday, with a very gradual fading trend through the end of the weekend through mid next week.

    Conditions look excellent on Wednesday afternoon/evening and into Thursday, during the peak of the swell, with light to moderate E trades. As the swell eases Friday through the weekend, conditions will remain very favorable with moderate easterly trades.

    -Kevin Wallis and the Surfline Forecast Team



  2. #2

  3. #3
    despondent correspondent Photoboy's Avatar
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    Yesterday at Jaws

    Maui surf photog Jimmie Hepp provides these photos from Jaws yesterday!










    " I just found out my nest egg has salmonella"



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  4. #4
    despondent correspondent Photoboy's Avatar
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    Not as big as predicted but juicy. And the weather is nice....Might have pulled the trigger on
    The Jay" had the threat of "The Eddie" not conflicted...The Eddie was called off last moment...

    http://surf.co.nz/news/world-news/20...94-no-go-eddie













    SAN FRANCISCO-
    COASTAL NORTH BAY...INCLUDING POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE-
    SAN FRANCISCO PENINSULA COAST-NORTHERN MONTEREY BAY-
    SOUTHERN MONTEREY BAY AND BIG SUR COAST-
    1057 AM PST SAT JAN 22 2011

    ...HIGH SURF ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 3 AM PST SUNDAY...

    A HIGH SURF ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 3 AM PST SUNDAY.

    * WAVES AND SURF: LARGE LONG PERIOD SWELLS ARE CURRENTLY
    IMPACTING THE COASTAL WATERS. BUOYS INDICATE SWELLS ARE UP TO
    11 FEET AT 17 SECONDS. THESE SWELLS WILL PRODUCE LARGE
    BREAKING WAVES RANGING FROM 15 TO 18 FEET WITHIN THE SURF ZONE
    OF WEST AND NORTHWEST FACING BEACHES. WATER LEVELS AT AREA
    BEACHES WILL BE CONSIDERABLY HIGHER THAN NORMAL.

    * TIMING: LARGE SWELLS WILL CONTINUE TO IMPACT NORTHERN AND
    CENTRAL CALIFORNIA COASTS THROUGH SATURDAY NIGHT.

    * IMPACTS: THESE LARGE POWERFUL WAVES HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO
    GENERATE STRONG RIP CURRENTS WITHIN THE SURF ZONE AS WELL AS
    DANGEROUS SNEAKER WAVES. PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN VISITING
    NORTHERN AND CENTRAL CALIFORNIA BEACHES...ESPECIALLY AROUND
    COVES OR ROCKS. WHEN ENTERING COVES...BE SURE THAT YOU HAVE AN
    ESCAPE ROUTE SINCE YOUR WAY IN MAY BE CUT OFF BY RAPIDLY
    SURGING WATERS BLOCKING YOUR ESCAPE TO DRY LAND.

    PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...

    A HIGH SURF ADVISORY MEANS THAT HIGH SURF WILL AFFECT BEACHES IN
    THE ADVISORY AREA...PRODUCING RIP CURRENTS AND LOCALIZED BEACH
    EROSION.
    " I just found out my nest egg has salmonella"



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  5. #5

    Maverick's surfer in serious condition



    Trette (center, on green board), moments before being sucked over the falls.
    © Don Montgomery

    On Saturday, a Southern California surfer by the name of Jacob Trette was sucked over the falls on a 20-foot set at Maverick's that nearly killed him. It was only Trette's second time surfing Maverick's, his first session coming on Friday when he was one of the few surfers out as a swell forecasted to peak Saturday got ahead of forecasters and reached it's apex a day early. On Saturday, the diminished swell was mostly in the 12-to-15 foot range, with rare sets in the 20-foot range

    "All day long, the pack was out of position, being lulled into the wrong spot because it wasn't that big," said Frank Quirarte, the Water Operations Director of the Jay At Mavericks Big Wave Invitational and a veteran at the famed big wave break. "I just mentioned to [photographer] Don Montgomery that they were all in the wrong spot and if a real wave came through they were going to get caught. That set caught them all off guard. [Trette] tried to punch through but he got sucked back over the falls. He took a two-wave hold down and came back up to take two more on the head."

    The final two waves pushed Trette through the near-shore rocks underwater. Australian photographer Russell Ord was on a jet ski and bringing in surfer Alex Bottello, who had been cleaned up by the set as well. Ord found Trette face up in the water and jumped off the ski to load Trette's body onto their rescue sled. Botello then held Trette's body on the sled as Ord beached the jet ski in the bay. Because of the NOAA-imposed ban on jet skis in the Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary, Ord should not have been in that area on a personal watercraft, but the fact that he was there on a jet ski may have saved Trette's life.




    On the beach, Ord and Bottello received help from an EMT and Maverick's surfer named Jeff Mustille, along with several others. As they attempted to revive Trette, local fire fighters reached the beach in a pickup truck and assisted, helping to retrieve a pulse and stabilizing him as more rescue units rolled in. A Life Flight took Trette from the beach.

    Both the San Francisco Chronicle and KCBS, citing Coastside Fire Protection District Battalion Chief Ari Delay, are reporting that Trette was brought to the Stanford Medical Center where he is in serious condition after being placed in a medically induced coma. ESPN Surfing will update this story as more information becomes available.

    http://sports.espn.go.com/action/sur...ory?id=6049737
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  6. #6
    Bad news.......
    Hope to him, his friends and family.

  7. #7
    Chick Magnet Cassidy's Avatar
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    http://www.ocregister.com/news/trett...e-surfing.html

    "Thursday, for the first time since being released from a hospital Wednesday, Trette publicly detailed his near-death experience from his parents' home in Capistrano Beach.
    At times, the single father got emotional as he watched his 4-year-old son, Jacob Jr., scamper around on the 9-foot-6-inch surfboard Trette was riding when he nearly drowned.
    "There's a surfing movie called 'In God's Hands,' and that's definitely where I was," Trette said.
    One of seven children who grew up surfing, Trette had ridden big waves before in Tahiti, Australia, Hawaii and other big-wave spots, but never Mavericks."


    Trette tried to fiercely paddle up and over the top of the first huge wave – the top being a dangerous place for a surfer to be.
    "I was thinking, 'Oh God! If I don't make it, I'm going to take the worst beating of my life.' "
    He didn't make it.
    Trette recalls being tossed backward and falling with such force that he hit the bottom of the ocean floor, some 30 feet below the surface.
    "I was stoked because I was able to use my legs to propel myself up," Trette said. "I was confident I was going to make it."
    When Trette surfaced, however, he only had time to get in half a breath as a massive wall of white water from a second wave slammed into him.
    "All I remember is being spun around, and then darkness. I'm a pretty tough guy. Usually, nothing can stop me. I must have gotten knocked out by the wave. I just blacked out. That's all I remember."

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